She leads with Fire.
She leads with Fire.

She leads with Fire.

Regular price $780.00 Sale

The leading ring in the rebellious setting series, there are so many things right about this turbulent, hot and defiant band, she might be one of my favorites. 

What you see here are burnt sienna colored garnets, with that undeniably fiery undertone, changing in the light from a rich Ruby red, to a glowing coal amber.

Each and every ring is hand made to order, and created using a unique and pretty extraordinary technique called cast in place. I am a lost wax carver - an ancient Egyptian art form of carving sculpture into wax, or in this instance jewelry, that is then set into heatproof plaster, and fired in a kiln allowing the wax to melt away leaving a cavity in the plaster, for molten metal to be poured in. It is called lost wax because that one original carving is then forever lost. The process is nothing short of a gamble, there is a humbling element of chance involved, and this is all part of what makes the process so thrilling. Now lets up the stakes with precious stones... 

The technique of adding stones to the wax carving is known as "Cast in Place", using heat to sink stones into the wax, and carving out little stone beds to build up wax around the stones, I work these gems into my carvings, allowing the heat to lead and the stones to fall where they will. The goal is this sweet spot where there is enough space around the stone to allow the plaster to pin it in place during the burnout, and enough wax around the stone to hold it secure once cast, but sparingly enough to create a unique and visually precarious setting, without a traditional bezel or prong setting. 

Every one is unique to the next, the stones have their own spectrum of diversity, and the natural ebb and flow of the wax makes for an organic sense of movement and equilibrium. Not all stones will survive this process, it's only possible with Diamonds, Sapphires, Ruby's, Garnets and a few brave souls I dare to throw in to the mix. And anything can happen in the cast... 

The ring photographed is cast in 10karat yellow gold, an understated personal favorite of mine, and stones are set 45% the way around the band. Eternity set - the whole way around - is also an option. 

Made with love, made with fire. 

xJM